A range is two appliances in one cabinet: a cooktop on top and an oven below. A cooktop can also stand alone, built into a counter. When one burner clicks without lighting, or a glass top stops heating in one spot, the rest of the kitchen still works, so many people put the repair off. Appliance Repair Doctors examine the cooktop one burner at a time, find what failed and fix it on the visit whenever the part allows. Our stove and cooktop house calls cover Atlanta and the towns around it.
Call (470) 570-7920 or send the form on this page. Tell us whether your stove is gas, electric or induction, the brand, and which burners are affected.
Choose the appliance, then enter a 5-digit ZIP code to see if we come to your area.
Choose your appliance to see how the Doctors diagnose and repair it.
Not cooling, leaking water, ice maker down or a strange noise.
Frost buildup, food softening or a freezer that runs nonstop.
No ice, slow ice or a leak from the dispenser.
Wine coolers and beverage centers that run warm.
Gas and electric ovens that will not heat or bake evenly.
Burners, cooktops and ranges: gas, electric and induction.
1. Burner by burner. We test every burner or element, not just the one you called about.
2. Gas cooktops. We check caps, heads and ports, the igniters, the spark module and switches, and the flame pattern.
3. Electric coil cooktops. We test each coil, its receptacle and its infinite switch.
4. Smooth-top and induction cooktops. We test the radiant elements or induction coils, the sensors, the touch controls and the power and control boards.
5. The range as a whole. On a range we also check the oven controls, because some faults are shared between the two.
You get the diagnosis and the repair plan before any work starts.
Brands we service include GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Samsung, LG, KitchenAid, Bosch, Maytag, Electrolux, Thermador, Wolf, Viking, Dacor and others. Appliance Repair Doctors is an independent company and is not affiliated with any range manufacturer.
Every stove or cooktop repair uses genuine or OEM-approved parts and carries our warranty of up to 6 months on parts and labor.
Igniters, switches, coils, elements and burner parts are routine replacements, and most stoves are worth repairing. A cracked glass top or a failed induction board on an older cooktop is the main case where we lay out the alternatives — with the diagnosis first.
Gas cooktops mix gas and air at each burner. When you turn the knob, a switch sends a spark from the igniter, and the gas lights. Most problems come from the spark side — wet or dirty igniters, a worn switch, a weak spark module — or from clogged burner ports that give a weak, uneven flame.
Electric coil cooktops use a heating coil that plugs into a receptacle. A knob switch, called an infinite switch, turns the coil on and off to hold the setting. Coils, receptacles and switches are all separate parts, and any one of them can fail.
Smooth-top radiant cooktops have the heating elements under a glass-ceramic surface. A limiter protects the glass from overheating. A failed element, a failed switch or a failed limiter can all stop a zone from heating.
Induction cooktops create heat directly in the pan using a magnetic field. They need pans with a magnetic base. Each zone has a coil, a sensor and electronic controls. When an induction zone fails, the fault is usually electronic, and our exam focuses on the coil, the sensors and the boards.
A dual-fuel range has a gas cooktop and an electric oven. A pro-style range often has more burners, a griddle or grill, and heavier valves and igniters. These ranges are built to last, and their parts are made to be serviced. We work on both, and we check the oven side during a cooktop visit, because some faults, like a weak spark module or a control issue, can affect both parts of the range.
An element that stays on high, or a burner that will not turn off, is a safety problem. Turn off power at the breaker, or close the gas valve behind the range, and call us. The cause is usually a switch or a control board that is stuck on. Do not keep using a cooktop in that state.
Call (470) 570-7920 and describe what your stove or cooktop is doing, or send the form and we will call you back to set a time.
The burner cap is out of place, the burner ports are clogged, or the igniter or spark module is failing.
Moisture or grease on the igniter, or a faulty spark switch in the knob.
Clogged ports, a misplaced cap or a gas pressure problem.
A burned-out coil, a loose or burned receptacle, or a failed infinite switch behind the knob.
The element itself, its switch or the control board.
The pan is not induction-ready, or a coil, sensor or power board has failed.
The control panel, a ribbon cable or moisture under the glass.
A stuck switch or a failed control.
Broken knob stems, switches or valves.
Office: 4370 Peachtree Rd NE, Brookhaven, GA 30319.
Usually the cap is out of place or the ports are wet or clogged. If those are fine, the igniter or spark module is failing.
Yes. We test the induction coils, sensors and boards and repair the failed part.
Yes. We repair elements, switches and controls. A cracked glass top needs a new top panel, and we tell you if that makes sense for your model.
Yes, including large gas and dual-fuel ranges.
Yes. Stove or cooktop work is covered for up to 6 months on parts and labor.
Usually the infinite switch behind the knob. We test it along with the coil and the receptacle.
Some sound is normal with induction, especially on high or with lighter pans. A new, louder noise or a zone that shuts off can mean a fan or board problem.
Yes. Shut off power or gas first, then call. A stuck switch or control is the usual cause.
Freezer Repair Ice Maker Repair Oven Repair Refrigerator Repair Stove & Range Repair Wine Cooler Repair
Call Appliance Repair Doctors: (470) 570-7920
Call the Doctors — (470) 570-7920 Or request a callback