A freezer holds the most expensive food in the house: meat bought in bulk, fish, the casseroles someone spent a Sunday making. When it starts to soften ice cream or grow a wall of frost, there is a deadline. Appliance Repair Doctors examine upright freezers, chest freezers and the freezer section of your refrigerator, find what actually failed and fix it on site. Our freezer house calls cover Atlanta and the towns around it.
Call (470) 570-7920 or use the form on this page. Tell us the type of freezer, the brand and what you see, and we will offer a same- or next-day window.
Choose the appliance, then enter a 5-digit ZIP code to see if we come to your area.
Choose your appliance to see how the Doctors diagnose and repair it.
Not cooling, leaking water, ice maker down or a strange noise.
Frost buildup, food softening or a freezer that runs nonstop.
No ice, slow ice or a leak from the dispenser.
Wine coolers and beverage centers that run warm.
Gas and electric ovens that will not heat or bake evenly.
Burners, cooktops and ranges: gas, electric and induction.
1. Real temperatures. We put a thermometer inside and compare it with the setting. A freezer should hold 0°F.
2. The sealed system. We check that the compressor starts and runs, and that the condenser can shed heat. On chest freezers the condenser is often built into the outer walls, so we also feel the cabinet sides: warm walls are normal while it runs.
3. Airflow. In frost-free models a fan moves air across the evaporator coil. We check the fan and look at the coil for solid frost.
4. Defrost. We test the heater, the defrost thermostat or sensor, and the timer or board.
5. Seals and hinges. We inspect the gasket around the whole door or lid and check that it closes without a gap.
Then we explain what we found and what the repair involves, before any work starts.
All parts are genuine or OEM-approved, and every repair carries our warranty of up to 6 months on parts and labor.
Many Atlanta-area homes keep a second freezer in the garage. A garage gets very hot in July and can drop near freezing on a January night. Most freezers are designed for a limited range of room temperatures, and outside that range they run long, frost up or stop cooling. If your garage freezer struggles only in certain months, tell us. It changes the diagnosis, and sometimes the fix is a matter of placement rather than parts.
Most freezer problems — fans, defrost parts, start devices, controls and gaskets — are worth repairing. A small chest freezer with a failed compressor is the main case where replacement may make more sense. We give you the diagnosis first, so you can decide with the facts.
The type of freezer changes both the symptoms and the fix.
Frost-free freezers have a fan, an evaporator coil hidden behind a panel and a defrost heater that melts frost several times a day. When the defrost system fails, frost builds up on the coil you cannot see, blocks the fan and the freezer slowly warms. The symptom is frost on the back panel and soft food, even though the compressor runs.
Manual-defrost freezers, which include most chest freezers and some uprights, have no fan and no heater. The cooling tubing is inside the walls. Frost is normal and must be removed by hand from time to time. Heavy frost that returns in days, though, means warm, humid air is getting in — usually through the lid or door gasket.
If you moved a freezer, let it stand upright for a while before plugging it in, as its manual directs; oil in the compressor needs time to settle. After a restart, a freezer can take many hours to reach 0°F. If it has not cooled after a full day, call us.
Call (470) 570-7920 with the symptoms, or send the form and we will call you back to set a time.
The freezer is holding somewhere above 0°F. A dirty condenser, a weak fan or a sensor out of calibration is the usual cause.
In a frost-free freezer, a failed defrost heater, thermostat or control. In a manual-defrost chest freezer, a door or lid that does not seal.
Heat is not leaving the system fast enough: dust on the condenser, a failed condenser fan or a room that is too hot, like a summer garage.
The compressor tries to start and cannot. Often a start relay or overload, sometimes the compressor itself.
A blocked defrost drain or a cracked drain pan.
A fan blade touching ice, a worn fan motor or a loose panel.
A swollen or torn gasket, a bent hinge or frost pushing the door open.
Temperature swings from a bad seal or a control that cycles too widely.
Power reaches the cabinet, but the control is not calling for cooling.
Appliance Repair Doctors is family-owned and independent; we are not affiliated with any freezer manufacturer. Office: 4370 Peachtree Rd NE, Brookhaven, GA 30319.
0°F. That is the USDA and FDA number for safe frozen storage.
Almost always a part of the defrost system: the heater, the defrost thermostat or sensor, or the control that runs the cycle. Our exam tests each one.
Yes. We repair chest freezers, upright freezers, freezer drawers and the freezer section of refrigerators.
The USDA says food that still has ice crystals or has stayed at 40°F or below can be refrozen. Food above 40°F for more than 2 hours should be thrown out.
Frigidaire, GE, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Samsung, LG, Maytag, Electrolux, Haier and many others.
Yes, by our warranty of up to 6 months on parts and labor.
Usually not. On most chest freezers the condenser runs inside the outer walls, so they get warm while it runs. Hot walls with soft food inside are a different story.
Many hours. If it is not near 0°F after a full day, something is wrong.
Yes, including built-in freezer drawers and freezer columns.
Freezer Repair Ice Maker Repair Oven Repair Refrigerator Repair Stove & Range Repair Wine Cooler Repair
Call Appliance Repair Doctors: (470) 570-7920
Call the Doctors — (470) 570-7920 Or request a callback